We walked most of this stage in woodlands. Although the scenery was nice, there was a big problem with this stage:
Do you see that path? A bit soggy, but good enough, right? No, absolutely not. In this path, every footstep was a gamble: will I get my foot covered in mud? That's right folks, slightly paraphrasing - we've been to "mud heaven" and back. It was at least 1-2km of not knowing the best place to step on! A little nerve wracking.. But the mud didn't last forever. After descending to San Juan the trees were gone and the wind they had been sheltering us from was back, and sometimes even stronger than yesterday's.
In Agés we bought just-made chapata bread and a few slices of "mortadela".. Wonderful.
A few kms afterwards, having passed Atapuerca, we came to a bifurcation of the Camino: two options to choose from, both waymarked, one that entered a military field and other that followed the outside of its fence, no directions to either side. We took the one through the military field as we knew there would be an off route left turn to the next albergue, so maybe this would be it. But 500m into the field we started hearing gunshots not far ahead.. So we traced back our steps and went the other way; a few kms in that track and we found our way to the albergue in Cardeñuela.
Last mishap of the day, after taking a nap at the albergue we realized we had no money left to buy us dinner. We counted the change left in our wallet: 1,94€. Next ATM was in Burgos, 15km ahead. We decided we would go to the bar next door, explain the situation and try to buy there some bread to eat. Fortunately, when I was getting the 1€ to pay for the bread I found a 5€ bill in our wallet that somehow I had missed before! The man at the bar gave us a little discount on the tortilla: half a tortilla, bread and one large bottle of water and we dined for exactly 5€! Still got 1,94€ in our wallet.
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